By Marianne Jewell
Hampton Union, Wednesday, April 14, 1982
HAMPTON -- The father and daughter who did the baking at home just seemed a natural team for the cooking when the Harrington family opened their restaurant, The Eatery, on Lafayette Road in Hampton.
Paul Harrington, the father, had been in the textile business and more recently worked for Granite State Minerals in Portsmouth. For years he thought that Hampton could use an attractive restaurant with home cooking for light lunches and he "Leaped at the opportunity" when it presented itself, he said.
Harrington's wife, Irene, said with a laugh, "After 25 years I'm out of the kitchen. I'm never cooking again." She is the hostess for the restaurant. Several members of the family agreed that Paul was the better cook.
Irene went on to say that she learned to cook after they were married and the mainstay of her cooking, with eight children to feed, was meat and potatoes. She said Paul baked bread and often cooked "when he wasn't golfing," and he had good practical experience each time she was in the hospital with a new baby.
Suzanne, their daughter, who is a sophomore majoring in education at UNH, took a semester off to become the other cook of the team when they opened The Eatery.
Suzanne had always made holiday desserts for the family and she helped with the cooking at home, she said. Also, she and her father did all the baking.
Suzanne said she really became interested in cooking when she was about 13 and was allowed to bake when she baby-sat.
All the quiches, desserts and pastries for the restaurant are made by Suzanne while her father makes the soups and breads. Suzanne shares one of her quiche recipes, which she first made at the restaurant, and cheese cake, a family favorite.
Harrington has given us a bread recipe by weight, as he bakes it, and also in approximate amounts in cups and tablespoons. Suzanne said she and her father were both taught baking techniques by Victor McKenzie, a retired baker.
In her spare time, Suzanne bicycles and does crafts. All her gifts are homemade. She is also credited with decorating the restaurant, using crafts from the Harrington home and paintings by neighborhood artists.
Irene said the neighbors helped them make aprons and napkins, and Roger Shephard and Harrington made all the table tops and the salad bar.
Harrington is a creative cook and likes to experiment. He said he had never made fish chowder before opening the restaurant. He finds recipes from a variety of sources. Everything is made fresh and no preservative are used in his breads.
Cooking for the restaurant is different from cooking at home, Harrington says. The commercial ovens are quicker and give a more even heat.
In addition to playing golf, Paul paints in oils and all media. He took art courses when he attended Lowell Tech, but changed to chemistry. Both Paul and Irene are originally from Lowell, Mass., but have lived in Hampton for 18 years. Irene has long been a volunteer with FISH and is currently secretary.
Suzanne's brothers and sisters are nearly all involved in the restaurant. It's a real family affair. Paula, who lives in Wolfeboro, waitresses. Kathleen is studying nursing at the Vocational Technical College in Portsmouth; she also waitresses and is the bookkeeper. Anne Marie, 14, is a freshman at Winnacunnet High School
Martin works at the Seabrook Nuclear Power Plant and he's the chief taster. "He eats everything," said his mother. Kevin, 17 a senior at Winnacunnet High School, helps his father and Suzanne with food preparation. Timothy, 15, a sophomore at WHS, does the dishes. Michael is a senior at UNH, majoring in business.
Then there is cousin Martha, who works for a doctor in Portsmouth, but helps out at The Eatery, along with the Harringtons' neighbors. Since they've added a continental breakfast and weekend light suppers, they use a lot of helpers.
Suzanne says the family has a good time together and it surely seems that way.
PAUL'S RYE BREAD
WITH WHOLE WHEAT:
12 ounces or approximately 3 cups rye flour.
2 ounces or approximately ½ cup wheat flour.
14 ounces or approximately 3½ cups white flour.
1 pound, 1 ounce or 2 cups water.
40 grams (2 packages) yeast.
20 grams (½ T.) salt.
20 grams (½ T.) sugar.
20 grams (½ T.) shortening.
This recipe makes two loaves (three pounds).
The rye and wheat flours are stone ground and the white is a high gluten flour.
Proof the yeast with a pinch of sugar in ½ cup water at 90 degrees Fahrenheit (warm on wrist). Add salt, sugar and shortening with 1 cup flour and mix. Add more flour slowly until the dough loses tackiness; turn onto a board and knead 15 minutes. Place in a greased bowl until doubled in bulk.
Punch down, divide in half and roll into two pieces. Let rest for 10 minutes.
Make into two loaveas and set into well-greased bread pans; set aside, covered, until doubled in bulk. Bake at 400 degrees for 30 minutes with a bowl of water in the oven for the first 10 minutes. Bread is done when evenly brown and the bottom sounds hollow to a light tap with your index finger.
SUZANNE'S BROCCOLI AND CHEESE QUICHE:
1 nine-inch pastry shell with a fluted edge, brushed with egg white and prebaked about five minutes or until dry.
½ of a 10-ounce package chopped frozen broccoli, cooked according to directions.
1 cup bread crumbs (crushed croutons).
2 ounces American cheese.
Pinch of nutmeg.
2 T. melted butter.
Spread half the bread crumbs on the bottom of the pastry shell. Sprinkle American cheese over the crumbs. Spread broccoli over the cheese. Spread Swiss cheese over the broccoli.
Beat eggs lightly with a whisk. Add cream, milk, salt, pepper and numeg. Pour over the cheese to fluted edge.
Combine the remaining bread crumbs with melted butter and sprinkle on top. Bake at 325 degrees for 60 minutes. Makes one pie, six pieces.
SECRET HARBOR CHEESECAKE:
1½ cups graham crackers, crushed fine.
½ cup brown sugar
¼ cup butter (room temperature
1 pound cream cheese (room temperature)
1¼ cups granulated sugar
2 tsp. vanilla
1½ cups sour cream
Mix crumbs, brown sugar and butter.
Press into the bottom of a spring form pan.
Bake 10 minutes at 350 degrees.
Beat cream cheese; gradually add ¾ cup sugar. Add eggs, one at a time. Beat well after each. Add 1 teaspoon vanilla. :Pour over the crust. Bake 45 minutes at 350 degrees. Top cake with mixture of sour cream, ½ cup sugar, and 1 teaspoon vanilla. Bake five minutes. Refrigerate.